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<channel>
	<title>Replacement Parts Specialists, Inc.</title>
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	<link>http://rpscoinc.com</link>
	<description>Chains and Lifting Products</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Tue, 13 Dec 2011 17:01:46 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>Overhead bridge Cranes Electric chain hoists</title>
		<link>http://rpscoinc.com/2011/12/overhead-bridge-cranes-electric-chain-hoists/</link>
		<comments>http://rpscoinc.com/2011/12/overhead-bridge-cranes-electric-chain-hoists/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 13 Dec 2011 16:54:53 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Overhead Lifting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Bridge]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Chain]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Cranes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Electric]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[hoists]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[overhead]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://rpscoinc.com/?p=10129</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Demag Cranes &#38; Components Corp. 29201 Aurora Road Solon Ohio 44129 1-800-756-8221 www.demagbridgecrane.com Kito's Maurie Bergstrom shows how the L5LB slip clutch hoists make for safer worksites Video Rating: 0 / 5]]></description>
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<p>Demag Cranes &amp; Components Corp. 29201 Aurora Road Solon Ohio 44129 1-800-756-8221 www.demagbridgecrane.com</p>
<p><object width="425" height="355" classid="clsid:d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0"><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true" /><param name="src" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/ewqn9-bN55Q?fs=1&amp;rel=0" /><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><embed width="425" height="355" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" src="http://www.youtube.com/v/ewqn9-bN55Q?fs=1&amp;rel=0" allowFullScreen="true" allowfullscreen="true" /></object></p>
<p>Kito's Maurie Bergstrom shows how the L5LB slip clutch hoists make for safer worksites<br />
<strong>Video Rating: 0 / 5</strong></p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<item>
		<title>Anchors &amp; Mooring &#8211; Boat safety in NZ &#8211; Maritime New Zealand</title>
		<link>http://rpscoinc.com/2011/12/anchors-mooring-boat-safety-in-nz-maritime-new-zealand/</link>
		<comments>http://rpscoinc.com/2011/12/anchors-mooring-boat-safety-in-nz-maritime-new-zealand/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 13 Dec 2011 16:54:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Anchor Chain]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Anchor Windlass]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Boating]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Mooring]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Anchors]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[boat]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Maritime]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Safety]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Zealand]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://rpscoinc.com/?p=10113</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[This Boat-Education safety video discusses &#38; shows techniques for anchoring boats and retrieving ,Remember: the wind or tide will move your boat around the anchor; you should allow a 360-degree area for movement. Pick a spot upwind from where you wish to end up (once you set anchor, you will drift downwind). Calculate the amount [...]]]></description>
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<p>This Boat-Education safety video discusses &amp; shows techniques for anchoring boats and retrieving ,Remember: the wind or tide will move your boat around the anchor; you should allow a 360-degree area for movement. Pick a spot upwind from where you wish to end up (once you set anchor, you will drift downwind). Calculate the amount of rode needed to set anchor (rode = 7 to 10 x water depth). Ready rode in a fashion that will allow the anchor to release smoothly to the bottom; ensure that no feet or equipment are entangled in the rope. Slowly lower the anchor from the bow, rather than the stern, to avoid capsizing or swamping. When the anchor has hit bottom - and sufficient rode is given out - give a solid pull to set the anchor. Secure the line to a bow cleat. Never tie the line to the stern: the additional weight could bring on water.<br />
<strong>Video Rating: 0 / 5</strong></p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Mooring Chain Inspection and Change by Fields Dive Service</title>
		<link>http://rpscoinc.com/2011/12/mooring-chain-inspection-and-change-by-fields-dive-service/</link>
		<comments>http://rpscoinc.com/2011/12/mooring-chain-inspection-and-change-by-fields-dive-service/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 13 Dec 2011 16:11:06 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Mooring]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Chain]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[change]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[dive]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Fields]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Inspection]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Service]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://rpscoinc.com/?p=10051</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Dallas Fields from Fields Dive Service shows what it takes to change the top chain on a mooring in Rockport Maine in 55' of water. Water was 39 degrees and visibility was great for Maine at about 15'-20' Video Rating: 5 / 5]]></description>
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<p>Dallas Fields from Fields Dive Service shows what it takes to change the top chain on a mooring in Rockport Maine in 55' of water. Water was 39 degrees and visibility was great for Maine at about 15'-20'<br />
<strong>Video Rating: 5 / 5</strong></p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>PowerLifting &#8211; I Stand Alone</title>
		<link>http://rpscoinc.com/2011/11/powerlifting-i-stand-alone/</link>
		<comments>http://rpscoinc.com/2011/11/powerlifting-i-stand-alone/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 13 Nov 2011 16:56:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Weightlifting Chain]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[alone]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Powerlifting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Stand]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://rpscoinc.com/?p=10167</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[my frist power lifting video i hope you guys enjoy. i just had my frist power lifting comp such a blast ok guys thank! Video Rating: 4 / 5 Bench press part of Power Lifting Contest in Rochester NY in Aug. 2008. Video Rating: 4 / 5]]></description>
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<div style="float: left; margin: 5px;"><img src="http://i.ytimg.com/vi/-CI61-qAmeE/default.jpg" alt="" /></div>
<p>my frist power lifting video i hope you guys enjoy. i just had my frist power lifting comp such a blast ok guys thank!<br />
<strong>Video Rating: 4 / 5</strong></p>
<p><object width="425" height="355" classid="clsid:d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0"><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true" /><param name="src" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/SeaflmxvJT4?fs=1&amp;rel=0" /><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><embed width="425" height="355" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" src="http://www.youtube.com/v/SeaflmxvJT4?fs=1&amp;rel=0" allowFullScreen="true" allowfullscreen="true" /></object></p>
<p>Bench press part of Power Lifting Contest in Rochester NY in Aug. 2008.<br />
<strong>Video Rating: 4 / 5</strong></p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<slash:comments>34</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Windlass Operation</title>
		<link>http://rpscoinc.com/2011/11/windlass-operation/</link>
		<comments>http://rpscoinc.com/2011/11/windlass-operation/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 13 Nov 2011 16:56:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Anchor Windlass]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Operation]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Windlass]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://rpscoinc.com/?p=10157</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Video Rating: 0 / 5 Iron Man Mark 3 Helmet Full Scale Wearable Replica Move Prop Review From Windlass Studios This took about a hour to clean after unboxing, Poor Iron Man LOL]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><object width="425" height="355" classid="clsid:d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0"><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true" /><param name="src" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/wQE8-sm0b_s?fs=1&amp;rel=0" /><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><embed width="425" height="355" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" src="http://www.youtube.com/v/wQE8-sm0b_s?fs=1&amp;rel=0" allowFullScreen="true" allowfullscreen="true" /></object></p>
<div style="float: left; margin: 5px;"><img src="http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wQE8-sm0b_s/default.jpg" alt="" /></div>
<p><strong>Video Rating: 0 / 5</strong></p>
<p><object width="425" height="355" classid="clsid:d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0"><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true" /><param name="src" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/8TjrZOya7B8?fs=1&amp;rel=0" /><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><embed width="425" height="355" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" src="http://www.youtube.com/v/8TjrZOya7B8?fs=1&amp;rel=0" allowFullScreen="true" allowfullscreen="true" /></object></p>
<p>Iron Man Mark 3 Helmet Full Scale Wearable Replica Move Prop Review From Windlass Studios This took about a hour to clean after unboxing, Poor Iron Man LOL</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<slash:comments>25</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Anchor rope</title>
		<link>http://rpscoinc.com/2011/08/anchor-rope/</link>
		<comments>http://rpscoinc.com/2011/08/anchor-rope/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 09 Aug 2011 04:44:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Anchor Chain]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Anchor Windlass]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Boating]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Anchor]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Rope]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://rpscoinc.com/?p=8411</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Anchor rope One of the best things that one can do, in order to be safe with regard to anchor rope when tossing the anchor in the water is to braid the anchor rope to the anchor chain. This is must when one is boating. Anchor rope made from nylon should be used because this [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>Anchor rope</strong></p>
<p>One of the best things that one can do, in order to be safe with regard to anchor rope when tossing the anchor in the water is to braid the anchor rope to the anchor chain. This is must when one is boating. Anchor rope made from nylon should be used because this rope has the maximum elasticity that can take in the shocks that it bears due to the force of the water current. For a long life of the anchor, try your best to keep it in shade when the anchor rope is not in use.</p>
<p>To braid the anchor rope, untie it almost 12 inches from the end at the lower part. The anchor rope is always melted so that it does not untie. You will have to cut or pull apart the strands. In case there is no way out other than cutting, put an electric tape to prevent it from opening.<br />
Form the end of the link of the chain; pass two of the three rope sections. And the third one has to be passed from the opposite side. Now two strands must strike out from one side and the third from the other side. One end has to be brought down far from the chain and the Swedish fid has to be stuck into a section of the rope. Now, it must be pulled from the opposite direction to twist but very firmly.</p>
<p>Then twist the anchor rope in a way that one side faces up and the fid can be slide into the other one. Pull down and hold the next section. Repeat the same for the remaining strand. Now tuck back all the section on the anchor rope. Keep twisting the sections and each strand. You must have a set of 6 tucks in each strand. Now untie each strand in a way that there are two sections for each strand. At the end twist the anchor rope at the top where the anchor meets the rope.</p>
<div>
<p>To get more knowledge about &lt;a rel="nofollow" onclick="javascript:_gaq.push(['_trackPageview', '/outgoing/article_exit_link']);" href="http://www.bitsfortheboat.com/"&gt;anchor rope&lt;/a&gt; and other factoid, visit the &lt;a rel="nofollow" onclick="javascript:_gaq.push(['_trackPageview', '/outgoing/article_exit_link']);" href="http://www.bitsfortheboat.com/"&gt;crewsaver lifejackets&lt;/a&gt; site.<br />
Article from <a href="http://www.articlesbase.com/business-opportunities-articles/anchor-rope-2234543.html">articlesbase.com</a></p>
</div>
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		<title>Chain Drive</title>
		<link>http://rpscoinc.com/2011/08/chain-drive/</link>
		<comments>http://rpscoinc.com/2011/08/chain-drive/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 03 Aug 2011 00:45:24 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Chains & Attachments]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Overhead Lifting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Chain]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[drive]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://rpscoinc.com/?p=8562</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Chain Drive History Polybolos (reconstruction) described by the Hellenistic writer Philo of Byzantium (3rd century BC). The semi-automated arrow thrower features the earliest known chain drive. Oldest known illustration of an endless power-transmitting chain drive, from Su Song's book of 1092 describing his clock tower of Kaifeng The oldest known application of a chain drive [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>Chain Drive</strong></p>
<p>History</p>
<p>Polybolos (reconstruction) described by the Hellenistic writer Philo of Byzantium (3rd century BC). The semi-automated arrow thrower features the earliest known chain drive.</p>
<p>Oldest known illustration of an endless power-transmitting chain drive, from Su Song's book of 1092 describing his clock tower of Kaifeng</p>
<p>The oldest known application of a chain drive appears in the Polybolos, a repeating crossbow described by the Greek engineer Philon of Byzantium (3rd century BC). Two flat-linked chains were connected to a windlass, which by winding back and forth would automatically fire the machine's arrows until its magazine was empty. Although the device did not transmit power continuously since the chains "did not transmit power from shaft to shaft", the Greek design marks the beginning of the history of the chain drive since "no earlier instance of such a cam is known, and none as complex is known until the 16th century. It is here that the flat-link chain, often attributed to Leonardo da Vinci, actually made its first appearance."</p>
<p>The first continuous power-transmitting chain drive was depicted in the written horological treatise of the Song Dynasty (9601279) Chinese engineer Su Song (1020-1101 AD), who used it to operate the armillary sphere of his astronomical clock tower as well as the clock jack figurines presenting the time of day by mechanically banging gongs and drums. The chain drive itself was given power via the hydraulic works of Su's water clock tank and waterwheel, the latter which acted as a large gear.</p>
<p>The endless power-transmitting chain drive was invented separately in Europe by Jacques de Vaucanson in 1770 for a silk reeling and throwing mill. J. F. Tretz was the first to apply the chain drive to the bicycle in 1869.</p>
<p>Chains versus belts</p>
<p>Drive chains are most often made of metal, while belts are often rubber, plastic, or other substances. Although well-made chains may prove stronger than belts, their greater mass increases drive train inertia.</p>
<p>Drive belts can often slip (unless they have teeth) which means that the output side may not rotate at a precise speed, and some work gets lost to the friction of the belt against its rollers. Teeth on toothed drive belts generally wear faster than links on chains, but wear on rubber or plastic belts and their teeth is often easier to observe; you can often tell a belt is wearing out and about to break more easily than a chain.</p>
<p>Chains are often narrower than belts, and this can make it easier to shift them to larger or smaller gears in order to vary the gear ratio. Multi-speed bicycles with derailleurs make use of this. Also, the more positive meshing of a chain can make it easier to build gears that can increase or shrink in diameter, again altering the gear ratio.</p>
<p>Both can be used to move objects by attaching pockets, buckets, or frames to them; chains are often used to move things vertically by holding them in frames, as in industrial toasters, while belts are good at moving things horizontally in the form of conveyor belts. It is not unusual for the systems to be used in combination; for example the rollers that drive conveyor belts are themselves often driven by drive chains.</p>
<p>Drive shafts are another common method used to move mechanical power around that is sometimes evaluated in comparison to chain drive; in particular shaft drive versus chain drive is a key design decision for most motorcycles. Drive shafts tend to be even tougher and more reliable than chain drive, but weigh even more (robbing more power), and impart rotational torque.</p>
<p>Use in vehicles</p>
<p>Bicycles</p>
<p>Main article: Bicycle chain</p>
<p>Chain drive was the main feature which differentiated the safety bicycle introduced in 1885, with its two equal-sized wheels, from the direct-drive penny-farthing or "high wheeler" type of bicycle. The popularity of the chain-driven safety bicycle brought about the demise of the penny-farthing, and is still a basic feature of bicycle design today.</p>
<p>Automobiles</p>
<p>Transmitting power to the wheels</p>
<p>Chain final drive, 1912 illustration</p>
<p>Chain drive was a popular power transmission system from the earliest days of the automobile. It gained prominence as an alternative to the Systme Panhard with its rigid Hotchkiss driveshaft and universal joints.</p>
<p>A chain drive system uses one or more roller chains to transmit power from a differential to the rear axle. This system allowed for a great deal of vertical axle movement (for example, over bumps), and was simpler to design and build than a rigid driveshaft in a workable suspension. Also, it had less unsprung weight at the rear wheels than the Hotchkiss drive, which would have had the weight of the driveshaft to carry as well, which in turn meant that the tires would last longer.</p>
<p>Frazer Nash were strong proponents of this system using one chain per gear selected by dog clutches. The Frazer Nash chain drive system, (designed for the GN Cyclecar Company by Archibald Frazer-Nash and Henry Ronald Godfrey) was very effective, allowing extremely fast gear selections. The Frazer Nash (or GN) transmission system provided the basis for many "special" racing cars of the 1920s and 1930s, the most famous being Basil Davenport's Spider which held the outright record at the Shelsley Walsh Speed Hill Climb in the 1920s. Frazer Nash cars are still raced in the UK.</p>
<p>Parry-Thomas was killed during a land speed record attempt in his car 'Babs' when the chain final-drive broke, decapitating him.</p>
<p>The last popular chain drive automobile was the Honda S600 of the 1960s.</p>
<p>Inside motors</p>
<p>Internal combustion engines often use chain drive to power the timing chain used to drive overhead camshaft valvetrains. This is an area in which chain drives frequently compete directly with belt drive systems, and an excellent example of some of the differences and similarities between the two approaches. For this application, chains last longer, but are often harder to replace. Being heavier, the chain robs more power, but is also less likely to fail. The camshaft of a four stroke engine must rotate at half crankshaft speed, so some form of reduction gearing is needed and a direct drive from the crankshaft isn't possible. Alternatives to chain drives include gear trains, bevel gear and shaft drives, or toothed flexible belt drives.</p>
<p>Transfer cases</p>
<p>'Silent chain' drives inside a 1912 gearbox</p>
<p>Today, inverted tooth drive chains are commonly used in passenger car and light truck transfer cases.</p>
<p>Motorcycles</p>
<p>Chain drive versus belt drive or use of a driveshaft is a fundamental design decision in motorcycle design; nearly all motorcycles use one of these three designs. See Motorcycle construction for more details.</p>
<p>See also</p>
<p>Bicycle chain</p>
<p>Chain pump</p>
<p>References</p>
<p>^ Green 1996, pp. 2337-2361</p>
<p>^ Cross &amp; Morse in Birmingham, http://www.crossmorse.com</p>
<p>^ a b Werner Soedel, Vernard Foley: Ancient Catapults, Scientific American, Vol. 240, No. 3 (March 1979), p.124-125</p>
<p>^ Needham, Joseph (1986). Science and Civilization in China: Volume 4, Part 2, Mechanical Engineering. Cave Books, Ltd. Page 109.</p>
<p>^ Needham, Joseph (1986). Science and Civilization in China: Volume 4, Part 2, Mechanical Engineering. Cave Books, Ltd. Page 111, 165, 456457.</p>
<p>^ a b c Temple, Robert. (1986). The Genius of China: 3,000 Years of Science, Discovery, and Invention. With a forward by Joseph Needham. New York: Simon and Schuster, Inc. ISBN 0671620282. Page 72.</p>
<p>Bibliography</p>
<p>Green, Robert E. et al. (eds) (1996), Machinery's Handbook (25 ed.), New York: Industrial Press, ISBN 978-0-8311-2575-2 .</p>
<p>External links</p>
<p>Wikimedia Commons has media related to: Drive chains</p>
<p>The Complete Guide to Chain</p>
<p>Motorcycle primary and drive chains explained</p>
<p>Categories: Mechanics | Automotive transmission technologies | Mechanical power transmission | Mechanical power control</p>
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Article from <a href="http://www.articlesbase.com/ask-an-expert-articles/chain-drive-3179691.html">articlesbase.com</a></p>
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<p>More <a href="http://rpscoinc.com/category/anchor-windlass/">Windlass Articles</a></p>
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		<title>Q&amp;A: Is stainless steel magnetic?</title>
		<link>http://rpscoinc.com/2011/07/qa-is-stainless-steel-magnetic/</link>
		<comments>http://rpscoinc.com/2011/07/qa-is-stainless-steel-magnetic/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 26 Jul 2011 04:41:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Stainless Steel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[magnetic]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Stainless]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Steel]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://rpscoinc.com/?p=8801</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Question by 6005250: Is stainless steel magnetic? I noticed a friend's appliances are not magnetic, and mine are. Both are "stainless steel." Are there two types of stainless steel or something? Thanks Best answer: Answer by injanier There are many alloys under the general category of stainless steel. 400-series alloys are all magnetic to some [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong><em>Question by 6005250</em>: Is stainless steel magnetic?</strong><br />
I noticed a friend's appliances are not magnetic, and mine are. Both are "stainless steel." Are there two types of stainless steel or something? Thanks</p>
<p><strong>Best answer:</strong></p>
<p><em>Answer by injanier</em><br />
There are many alloys under the general category of stainless steel. 400-series alloys are all magnetic to some degree. 300-series alloys are generally non-magnetic, but some alloys become magnetic when cold-worked (i.e. rolled or drawn).</p>
<p><strong>What do you think? Answer below!</strong></p>
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		<title>Truck Tie Downs Are Important! How To Make Sure Your Next Load Is Secure</title>
		<link>http://rpscoinc.com/2011/07/truck-tie-downs-are-important-how-to-make-sure-your-next-load-is-secure/</link>
		<comments>http://rpscoinc.com/2011/07/truck-tie-downs-are-important-how-to-make-sure-your-next-load-is-secure/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 25 Jul 2011 16:42:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Overhead Lifting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Downs]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Important]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Load]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Next]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[secure]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Sure]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Truck]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://rpscoinc.com/?p=8796</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Truck Tie Downs Are Important! How To Make Sure Your Next Load Is Secure Although the purpose of rules is to make things less complicated, they can sometimes do the opposite-- especially if technical government jargon is involved. If you're a truck driver, the last thing you need is some Town Car driving bureaucrat to [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>Truck Tie Downs Are Important! How To Make Sure Your Next Load Is Secure</strong></p>
<p>Although the purpose of rules is to make things less complicated, they can sometimes do the opposite-- especially if technical government jargon is involved.</p>
<p>If you're a truck driver, the last thing you need is some Town Car driving bureaucrat to tell you how to do your job. Everyone knows that load securement is important; no one wants to be the poor guy standing on the side of the highway with his load scattered across the road for miles.</p>
<p>The official rules are complicated and get more complicated everyday; and to many experienced drivers they have little to do with reality. But unfortunately, it's the law to follow them, no matter how much we may disagree.</p>
<p>There are many intricacies to direct and indirect truck tie downs. The old standards of working load limits, tensile strength, and "the weakest link" that have worked for decades, even centuries, no longer meet government standards.</p>
<p>First off, the rule according to the DOT handbook states that you must have half of the weight of your load in tie down strength. This refers to the holding power of your winch straps, rachet straps, load binders, truck tie downs and other important items used for cargo securement.</p>
<p>Here's how to make sure your next load is secured according to the law:</p>
<p>1) First off, the bigger chains the better off you are as they are much more capable of holding larger loads. Your best bet is half inch chains. Anything smaller just wouldn't do the job and anything bigger would be really heavy and hard to work with.</p>
<p>2) In the rear of the load, try 2 half inch chains and load binders crossed. This is so the load doesn't move sideways in either direction. You do it at an angle so the load doesn't shift and go forward when you hit the brakes.</p>
<p>3) The chains should have grab hooks on the trailer side and should be attached through a D-Ring that's attached to the trailer. D rings are great because they're rated at 10,000 lbs.</p>
<p>4) On the load side, having slip hooks on the chains to connect to the D-rings really come in handy. 5/8 Slip hooks fit nicely with a half-inch chain.</p>
<p>5) Chain positioning is really important. Many drivers prefer to have chain going through the rub rail, around the chain spool, and back under the stake pocket, finally hooking it. (Make sure you're cross-chaining again to keep your load from moving sideways or backwards.) You should also do it this way, because the chain is stronger than the standard trailer connect spots. It may take more time to do it this way, but if you get in a wreck you don't have to worry about the trailer connects and stake pockets becoming loose. This is also done because if there's slack in your chain for any reason, the hook won't come out.</p>
<p>All in all, your best bet is to read the DOT handbook or get someone to translate the jargon for you. One key thing to remember is that half of your load weight must be in tie-downs. Invest in some quality truck tie downs and use them properly to ensure you're following proper regulations.</p>
<div>
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Article from <a href="http://www.articlesbase.com/business-articles/truck-tie-downs-are-important-how-to-make-sure-your-next-load-is-secure-1892438.html">articlesbase.com</a></p>
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		<title>Stainless Steel for Dummies (2 of 3)</title>
		<link>http://rpscoinc.com/2011/07/stainless-steel-for-dummies-2-of-3/</link>
		<comments>http://rpscoinc.com/2011/07/stainless-steel-for-dummies-2-of-3/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 24 Jul 2011 14:40:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Stainless Steel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Dummies]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Stainless]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Steel]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://rpscoinc.com/?p=8467</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Matt and Joe go over proper wet-sanding techniques for stainless steel moldings. Video Rating: 5 / 5]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><object width="425" height="355" classid="clsid:d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0"><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true" /><param name="src" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/wRvtuIFoqCM?fs=1&amp;rel=0" /><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><embed width="425" height="355" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" src="http://www.youtube.com/v/wRvtuIFoqCM?fs=1&amp;rel=0" allowFullScreen="true" allowfullscreen="true" /></object></p>
<p>Matt and Joe go over proper wet-sanding techniques for stainless steel moldings.<br />
<strong>Video Rating: 5 / 5</strong></p>
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